Posts Tagged ‘dogs’

How to Properly Use a Leash

Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010

What is the purpose of a leash?

“A chain, rope, or strap attached to the collar or harness of an animal, especially a dog, and used to lead it or hold it in check.” – Webster’s Dictionary

Hmmmm…

- A chain, or rope used to hold an animal in check?

- A chain, or rope used to lead an animal?

First of all, the purpose of a leash is not to hold an animal in check. The purpose of a leash is to connect the dog to the owner. Furthermore, last time I checked horses did not where leashes, and it is these huge misconceptions of the leash and its proper roll in the lives of the owner/dog team that prompted me to take the time to write this article.

The leash is a great invention due to its simplicity and its purpose. Without its invention, we would not be, along with our faithful four-legged companions able to take advantage of strolls on nice summer days, or brisk morning walks, yet the inability and ignorance of the common dog owner when it comes to using the leash makes me wonder why they do not come with instructions on how to use them.

As I said above, the leash was invented to attach you, the owner to your dog. The purpose of the leash is not for the owner to be the anchor behind the pulling bull, which 9 times out of ten is the actual scenario. Thousands upon thousands of dog owners would enjoy walking their dogs ten fold if they only knew and applied proper leash techniques when doing so.

The purpose of the leash while walking with your dog is to allow you the owner to have constant control over your dog, it is not to sentence your dog to a boring dull walk! Allowing your dog to venture to the boulevard for a sniff, or venturing off course to be lavished with affection by passersby, is simply your dog being a dog. I understand that in most cases it is simply a case of the public just not knowing any better; however, taking the time to find out the correct way to use the most common dog product ever made would help to know end, the relationship, and overall ambiance between dog and master.

Common Mistake

Letting your dog pull you around, is just teaching him/her that having a taught leash is cool and you do not mind being jerked from one place to another. The biggest fault with the taught leash scenario, is that the owner tends to pull back when the dog pulls, thus encouraging the dog to pull thus initiating a tug of war that the dog usually wins.

Solution

The dog must understand that you are in charge of the situation and they are not. Walking with you should be a privilege with acting out of control an undesirable and unacceptable act. By maintaining a slack leash while walking with your dog, you are giving yourself that extra foot of leash, as well as an extra second to react to your dog’s incessant forward lunges.

Technique

Pulling dog

First of all you the owner need to know the correct way to handle your dog’s leash. Always make sure that your leash arm is not straight but bent. By doing this, you are not putting stress on your arm, and you are giving yourself an arm length of leash to use when reacting to unwanted action from your dog:

- When your dog lunges forward from a loose leash to a tight leash, he/she will experience a level of discomfort. This in itself, may be enough to discourage the behavior. - If your dog continues to pull, this is where the bent arm theory comes in: By suddenly straightening your arm and backing up, you are delivering a loose leash, to taught correction to your dog’s forward lunging, thus putting a surprising and abrupt halt to your dog’s forward progress. - The third option is to straighten your arm while turning and walking in the opposite direction. By doing this you are providing a loose leash, to a hard correction, that is ongoing and only ceases when the dog complies with you.

The idea behind this approach is to make an effort to convey to the dog that this type of behavior is unacceptable and you the owner will not tolerate it. You the owner want your dog to make the association between lunging forward, and the resulting discomfort that accompanies that act. If proper leash technique is used correctly and consistently, one can put a stop to incessant pulling of any kind whether it be pulling forward, or pulling sideways. Always make a point to praise and reward the dog upon compliance! By doing this you are only strengthening the dog’s understanding that good behavior leads to good results. By relaying the message to your dog that unwanted activity will lead to discomfort, while compliance will lead to a good outcome, walking your dog will soon become a pleasure not a chore.

Dealing with Separation Anxiety

Thursday, August 27th, 2009

Hi I need to ask a question
the question is : How do I get my dog not to rip my house a park when I step out for anywhere from 2mins to 2hours?
I would go out to the store and come back and the house look like something hit. I don’t want to put my dog in the cage when i am just going out and be
back in a few min. I came to your webside and I thought I would ask you …..

Thank you for your time : David

Hey there David:

Sounds to me like your dog has separation anxiety. Dogs will do this when they are left by themselves. They will look for something to do, and when you leave a dog to his or her own device, your basically asking for trouble.

Your dog is not being bad in its opinion. Your gone, it is all alone, it does not like being alone, it gets bored, and wam!

To fix the problem you have a number of options:

- Give the dog something to keep him busy when your gone. A good way to do this is to offer a stuffed kong to your dog. This will keep him/her busy for ever and they wont care that your not there.

- Put your dog on a tie-down. This basically involves attaching your dog to its leash, (dead ring of collar) then attaching the other end to something that is immoveable, thus limitting the ranging ability of your dog.

- Put your dog in a dog proofed room. By putting the dog in a room where nothing is wreckable, then you are putting him/her in a situation where messing up is not an option.

- If your dog is used to the crate, (cage) there is nothing cruel about putting him/her in there while you are out of the house.

Good luck.

Protection Training Q&A

Thursday, August 27th, 2009

Somebody the other day, emailed me a question asking about protection dogs, so I whipped up this quick Q&A to provide some general info.

Q) To make a dog a protective dog do you have to make it mean?

A) No! The instinct to protect will be part of the dogs blood line assuming that you acquire a dog of this nature, and will be further enhanced through sound training. Furthermore, if you attempt to mistrain your dog to become mean, your dog will more than likely start protecting itself from you. When you purchase your dog, ask about exercises that you can perform with your dog to ensure his level of training stays as high as possible.

Q) How do I teach my dog to tell the difference between friendly and nonfriendly people?

A) Sound training will teach your dog to protect only when confronted in an aggressive way. You need to properly socialize your dog so it knows that there are friendly people out there. As mentioned however, it is crutial for the dog to comprehend the fact that not all people are bad guys, just the ones that conceiveibly pose a threat to your family through their tone of voice, or their actions.

Q) Does my dog have to be obedient?

A) Of course! Every dog should be relatively obedient, this should be a definite for any protection dog. Being able to respond to an order when given can make the difference between life or death in many cases. A dog that is not well trained is more likely to go after innocent people, based on prey drive alone. Having an obedient dog will aid you greatly allowing you to have full control over your dog’s actions at all times.

Q) What is the best breed of dog that is used for protection work?

A) There are numerous breeds that are used today for protection work, my top picks would have to be the Belgian Malinois, Rottweiler, German Shepherd, and PitBull

Q) What is Schutzhund?

A) Schutzhund is a sport for dogs to participate in that combine the three working components; these being, tracking, Obedience, and Protection work in that order. The sport is to test the ability of dog and handler and their ability to work together performing working tasks that the dog has been trained to perform. The Teams are judged based on the ability of the dog to complete the desired tasks, which solely depends on the level of training that it has undergone.

Q) Should I ever crate my protection dog?

A) I would go against the theory of crating my protection dog at anytime. Being of the protective nature, your dog will want to be able to travel around the house, sometimes portraying the “watch man” routine. This is normal and is just your dogs instinct to watch over his family.

Q) What happens if my protection dog attacks an innocent person?

A) This question is answered above. If your dog goes after an innocent person, this is an indication of the low level of your dog’s training. Your dog should be taught only to aggress when being meaningfully confronted, and if this is not the case, there are a number of options you have; these being:

- If you purchased your dog from a dog protection training company, contact them and arrange to return the dog for further training.

- Do what you can to locate a Schutzhund trainer that can assist you and your dog.

What you should never do

If your protection dog is not working out for you, never, ever simply give him away to a friend or any interested person. These dogs are not like normal pets and need constant “maintinence training” to keep them sharp, focused, and safe to be around. Simply giving him away will not curb his instincts, and could lead to a really bad outcome.

Poisonous Foods for Dogs

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

When discussing dog care Every dog owner alike at one point or another has fed their beloved dog something from the dinner table. Whether you do it on a regular basis, or just the odd little morsel now and again, how sure are you that what you are feeding your dog is actually safe for him/her? Very few dog owners actually know the types of food that they can feed to their dogs and the types of food that can be dangerous if eaten by their dogs.

- As a rule of thumb, usually anything that is acidic is not a good food to be offering your dog. Acidity can affect the GI track of the dog, leading to a number of nasty side effects some of which include; vomiting, panting, fever, restlessness etc.

- Grapes and or raisons are very bad for dogs and kidney failure has been documented in dogs that have ingested this fruit.

- Onions are also extremely poisonous to your dog as they affect the balance of red blood cells in the dog’s body.

- Coffee will elevate your dog’s heart rate; can lead to anything from seizures, to GI track difficulties.

- The second most common cause of canine poisoning in the world today is ibuprofen. Dogs love the smell of this drug and will do anything to get at it if a bottle is around the house and not securely locked away.

- The most popular treat people want to give their dogs is chocolate. This is a big no-no! As with coffee, chocolate contains caffeine that will elevate your dog’s heart rate and can promote seizures.

- Always be sure to keep your animal away from rat poison! This is the world leader in canine poisoning and can be prevented if we take care to ensure that the rat traps are not where your dog can get at them.

Intro to Puppy Nutrition

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

Proper nutrition is very important for new puppies. It is important, because puppies will go through an accelerated growth phase during the first 15 months of their lives, and having a diet that can provide the optimum base for stable growth without exceeding or the depleting of necessary elements is very, very important.

Protein for example is needed in larger amounts by growing puppies than it is by the adult dog, due to the rapid growth of the puppy’s muscles, joints and bones. The energy requirements for a puppy are considerably higher also making it essential for them to receive food nutritionally rich and calorie dense.

There are many different puppy foods on the market. This is to counteract the fact that certain breeds of puppies require specific nutritional elements in specific amounts. Little breed puppies for example have a much higher metabolism than those of bigger dogs meaning that they need a different calorie density food than bigger dogs need.

When feeding, try to feed according to your veterinarian’s suggested guidelines, or those set out on the label of the dog food bag. Usually, puppies are fed three times per day, dropping to two daily feedings after the pup is four months of age.

Cheap Dog Food Vs. the Good Stuff

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

Commercial Vs. Premium

Jay writes:
What is the difference between commercial and premium dog foods?

Answer:

The difference between run of the mill dog food and high quality dog foods is quite extensive however, there are easy methods that we as dog owners can take advantage of to ensure that we offer the best possible diet to our faithful companions.

Commercial Dog Food

The commercial dog food market is one heavily relied on by wholesale and commercial stores as it is this type of product that contributes widely to the success of these consumer franchises. Why is this?
For the production of a commercial dog food product, dog food manufacturers use a lower quality ingredient structure. (including animal by product)Why do they do this?

- By doing this, the cost of production is low.

- The profit is high due to the public buying the product at a reduced price than that of the premium product.

- Most pet owners are not concerned with what the label on the bag reads.

- Fillers (cheap additives) are included to make the food taste good.

Premium Dog Food

Premium dog food is exactly how it sounds.

- Products that are manufactured with the dog in mind instead of the dollar.

- Products that are properly nutritionally balanced.

- Products that contain high quality ingredients.

- Products that take due time to be created allowing for proper research to be conducted

- Extensive product testing, ex. Taste trials.

One phrase sums up my illustrated point exactly, that is:
Commercial dog food manufacturers gain from our ignorance! Would you as a parent feed your new baby a low quality formula, or would you go with the more expensive yet far superior brand?
As a dog owner, I can vouch for the latter. Knowing how important a healthy diet is to the present and future longevity of my dog makes me feel guilty that at one point, I was actually feeding him a commercial dog food!

Check List for the Consumer

The below list is a simple guide containing things to consider the next time you go to purchase dog food for your dog:

- commercial products are sold in commercial establishments. (grocery stores)

- Premium products are not sold in grocery stores.

- A lot of commercial products list whole meat of some kind as their first ingredient. (misleading due to the measurement being taken before the meat is cooked, reducing it drastically)

- Premium products will not list whole meat as their first ingredient.

- A lot of premium products contain specific breed formulas best suited for your breed of dog.

- When buying a premium dog food, you pay for what you get. In order to ensure a quality product money is spent to research, test and tinker with the product to create the finished product. I do not mind paying a little extra for my dog’s food because I know that he would thank me if he could for taking such good care of his dietary needs.

Benefits of Taurine in Pet Food

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

Taurine, a water-soluble amino acid, has recently become the topic of conversation when referring to the nutritional composition that makes up the human and animal physical structure. Once thought of as an unimportant A.A. recent studies prove that this amino acid has metabolic properties that are very beneficial to various components of the mammal skeletal system. (heart, kidneys, blood)

Taurine – “A colorless crystalline substance, C2H7NO3S, formed by the hydrolysis of taurocholic acid and found in the fluids of the muscles and lungs of many animals.” (dictionary.com)

Taurine’s main purpose is to act as a catalyst facilitating the flow of vital elements to and from cells. Elements such as Sodium, (Na) Potassium, (k) and Calcium (ca) depend on Taurine in order for them to move from one cell to another.

Taurine has been a present element in cat food due to its vital properties and just recently pet food manufacturers have been implementing Taurine into dog foods also realizing that this A.A. can be very beneficial to dogs as well as cats. Taurine is most abundantly found in the retina and cases of blindness have been linked to Taurine deficiency in kittens, however in most cases, the same studies showed a reversal of the blindness when Taurine supplements were administered.

Taurine is also very beneficial for the heart, and cases of dilated cardiomyopathy have been linked to low Taurine levels in kittens. )A disease or disorder of the heart muscle, especially of unknown or obscure cause.)

I know the average dog owner may look at what I just wrote and say something to the effect of “why are you telling me this? I’m sure if this Taurine is so important, my dog food manufacturer will add it to my dog’s food.” Well I’m sorry to have to tell you this, but in actual fact, most dog food manufacturers are out to make a buck, not to make sure that your dog is getting the best optimal diet. That is why doing research and knowing as much as you can about what you are feeding your dog is so important. Dogs will usually eat anything that you give them, that is why in my case, I will always ensure that I familiarize myself with every component that makes up my dog’s food, to ensure that he is getting a stable diet enriched with all the required components to allow him to function at the top of his game.

Whether you realize it or not, research takes time and money. In some cases to compete with competition, dog food manufacturers taking the time and using the resources that are necessary to properly study a potential additive, is just not an option. In today’s world where manufacturers are vying for your attention time is of the essence and this can sometimes be a hindrance when it comes to properly researching and analyzing potential additions to the given product. Sometime when its cold and rainy and you cant face the outside world, you might find it beneficial to “google” a known shady dog food manufacturer and compare their dog food with what you feed your dog. Then “google” a known high quality manufacturer and do the same comparison. I am certain that you will find this simple exercise quite fascinating, I did.

The Difference Between Chicken and Chicken Meal

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

When selecting the best dry food for your dog, why is it better to go with the chicken meal than the pure chicken?

Chicken meal is simply chicken that has been baked to remove bacteria and other toxins. Chicken is simply pure chicken.

What people dont know about chicken, is that it is made mostly of water. If a label on a bag of
dog food says %60 whole chicken, that is quite misleading as that does not take into account how much of that %60 of chicken is left after baking it to remove unwanted
substances!

When the label on the bag says %60 of chicken meal, your getting more of the chicken because the product has already been baked to remove unwanted affects
such as bacteria.
Explanation:

Converting dry matter basis

This can be the hard part. All pet foods have different levels of moisture. Canned foods can have up to 80% moisture whereas, some dry foods can have as
little as 6%. This is important for 2 reasons. The first is that the food is priced by the pound, and when you buy dog food that is 80% water you get 20%
food and the rest is water. So the amount of food your pet consumes is small and expensive. The other reason for understanding percent moisture is to help
you compare crude protein and fat between brands and between canned and dry. The listings on the label are for the food as it is, not as it would be on
a dry matter basis. So without converting both brands of food to a dry matter basis you will not be able to compare them accurately. Fortunately, the conversion
is not that complicated.

If a dry dog food has 10% moisture we know that it has 90% dry matter. So we look at the label and check the protein level that reads 20%. Next, we divide
the 20 percent protein by the 90% dry matter and we get 22%, which is the amount of protein on a dry matter basis. Does this make sense so far? Good. Now
let us compare this to canned food that has 80% moisture. We know that with 80% moisture we have 20% dry matter. The label shows 5% protein. So we take
the 5% and divide it by 20% and we get 25% protein on a dry matter basis. So the canned food has more protein per pound on a dry matter basis after all
the water is taken out. We can do the same for fat, fiber, etc.

good luck calculating!

Lars Rubs Shoulders With World’s Fastest Sprinters

Saturday, August 22nd, 2009

Not long ago, I went to Florida as part of a “warm-weather” training camp.

Of course LarsBar came along with me, and thus is the main reason for this post.

“So, back from Florida, tanned, tired and tested for sure.

The trip was amazing and although we trained 9 of the 10 days we were there, we did find time to do a fair bit of tourist type stuff.

Lars, as Lars always is, was a great little addition to our squad.

His work was top notch as always, and his playful nature was a real treat to have as part of our group.

He must’ve been quite surprised, getting off the plane in Florida to plus 25 degrees, as back here before we left, it was raining and a cold 2 degrees.

During the day, it was often near, or over 30 degrees, weather that I do not really like working him in do to the heat, obviously.

We actually did the majority of our training in the early morning when it was not as hot, meaning that I could take the Lars Bar to the track with us.

After our workouts, I’d let him go and he’d go crazy running crazy laps, saying hi to people and just being a silly little punk!

Heck he even said hi to Tyson Gay, and veronika Campbell, 2 of the world’s fastest sprinters.

During our gym time, Lars also came along, a first for him, as I have not taken him in to an actual weight room before.

Despite all the stressful situations he was put in, Lars performed admirably, another sign that he is truly dedicated to his job of getting me from point A to point B safely.

We came home yesterday, getting up at 4:00 AM, and getting in to Ottawa at 2:00 PM.

I, obviously did not bring Luther on the trip, so I was obviously chomping at the bit to get my boy back.

He’s doing great, and is right now crashed on my couch, as he is for most of my “working” day.

Even after the long day yesterday, Lars still had an abundance of energy.

We took the boys to a dog park for a good run and Lars took full advantage of the opportunity to burn off some steam.

He is now crashed at my feet, snoring away, heck it is only 8:30 AM!”

Teach Your Dog to Retrieve

Thursday, August 20th, 2009

The art of teaching your dog a skill of retrieving depends a lot on the breed of your dog, and the approach that you take when attempting to teach the skill to him or her. Dogs that are more likely to display the natural ability of retrieving, say for example the Labrador Retriever, will learn the skill faster than say a dog that is not apt to want to learn anything, say for example the boxer.

There are various ways to teach the retrieve. Some trainers use the “forced retrieve” approach. Broken down, this method employs the idea that the dog is to feel some sort of negative stimulous, until the desired act is performed. For example, when a trainer is teaching a dog to pick an item off the ground, he will pinch the dog’s ear hard enough to invoke a painful reaction from the dog, at the same time maneuvering the dog into a position where he can force the treat into the dog’s mouth, thus ending the pain that the dog is experiencing. The idea of this type of training, is to teach the dog that the only way to eleviate the painful stimulous is to pick up that item. A lot of people disagree with this method of training as it can break a dog’s spirit and turn a good dog into a fear aggressive one.

Other trainers will employ the less dramatic approach to teaching the retrieve. Through positive reinforcement, and the ability to use the dog’s natural desire to retrieve, teaching the skill can be a fun way to spend time with your dog, and can open up the door for other similar acts to be learned much quicker than would be possible otherwise.

When teaching the retrieve, it is important to understand that keeping training fun, will only help you keep your dog’s focus. Dogs have a very limitted attention span so keeping them interested is half the battle.

Having a dog with a good base in basic obedience will help you greatly. Too often I hear of people complaining that their dog will go get the ball, but refuse to bring it back, leading to a frantic game of “catch me if you can.” Most dog owners may view this act as an ordeal, however your dog views this as a great game.

Tip number 1, do not chase after your dog. The second your dog grabs that ball the game is on. If you simply begin following your dog in an attempt to regain possession of the ball, your dog will simply wait for you to get close, then turn and “high tail” it making you frustrated. This same sequence will go on and on until either you give up, or your dog gets tired of eluding you.

Tip number 2, when beginning to teach the retrieve do not throw the ball too far from where you are standing. Generally, the further the dog is away from the handler, the less obedient they want to be. By keeping them in close proximity to you, gaining their attention if they become otherwise distracted will be easier for you to do.

Tip number 3, praise your dog. If your dog does indeed grab the ball, coax them to return to you. If the dog is one that has been put through some sort of obedience training, then he/she should come back to you. Always praise good behavior, because this will lead to the behavior more than likely being repeated.

Tip number 4, always end the game on a good note. Dogs have good memories, and if they learn to associate the act of training with a negative experience, then you will never make progress and will only become frustrated.

Tip number 5, try to work the retrieve while your dog is on a long line. By doing this, you can coax your dog to return to you by simply giving a slight tug to your leash thus telling the dog to return to you.

If your dog has a good level of basic obedience, he/she should come to you whenever you give the come command. Part of the battle, is making your dog associate the act of returning to you with more fun. If your dog grabs that ball and simply turns and looks at you waiting for you to chase after him/her, simply don’t. Utter the come command, your dog should come to you. If the command is not obeyed simply ignore your dog. If properly socialized as puppies, dogs will have learned that the act of ignoring means the end of the game. If the dog is interested in playing which most dogs are, then he/she will indeed come to you with ball in mouth.

If your dog is not obedient, then expecting him/her to come back whenever you call it is not a fair expectation. By teaching basic obedience, then you will have the ability to have control over your dog, and as we can see from above, this can lead to fun experiences for both your dog and yourself. Having an obedient dog, does not always have to be a serious experience, it can allow for more fun, and more freedom due to your dog’s ability to listen, and obey you when you command it.